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Overheating Issue


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26 replies to this topic

#1
Geoff

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So my car has the 190 degree thermostat, a mishimoto radiator, and 2 slim fans (I run both all the time here in Vegas). I run Redline Water Wetter and distilled water with maybe 5-10% antifreeze. I never had an issue before, but now the car will stay around 193 for about 15-20 minutes of driving, and then creep up to a max of 223 (I turned the car off at this point to let it cool). My FP race manifold is uncoated and has no heatshield. The o2 housing still retains the stock heat shield. It would make sense that the manifold is heat soaking the radiator after a while and it cant cool the coolant anymore, but it is strange that it wasn't doing it before. Also, if I am coasting down a hill (no throttle) the coolant temp can drop from 219 to 200 in about 10-15 seconds. But once I start applying load again, the temperature will gradually rise again.

My possible solutions will be:

1. a 180 degree thermostat
2. ceramic coating my manifold
3. move out of the desert lol Posted Image

Does anyone have any input or dealt with this? Thanks.

#2
c.keagy

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Have the system pressure tested. Check for small unnoticeable leaks.

Test your current thermostat for proper operation.

If there was not a problem before then something is causing it.


The last sentence makes me think a bad water pump.
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#3
Geoff

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Have the system pressure tested. Check for small unnoticeable leaks.

Test your current thermostat for proper operation.

If there was not a problem before then something is causing it.


The last sentence makes me think a bad water pump.



Can you explain why it would make sense to be the water pump?



#4
The Demon

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it would make sense that it could be the water pump because under load it starts heating up but as soon as you let off and coast it slowly drops, makes me think that the pump is going out, not quite gone yet but almost there.

I would go with option 3 :thumbsup: move to sac... lol


But on a serious note, do as Chris said and pressure check the system at the cap, it it holds then replace your cap, if not, find a small leak. I recommend this because if you haven't changed your setup then that isn't the problem because you said you have never had issues before.
have you thought about creating an exhaust vent out of your engine bay or creating a intake setup to your radiator?

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#5
Geoff

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if the thermostat wasn't opening, wouldn't the temperature continually rise? It seems like my coolant can last 20 minutes or so staying at operating temperature, and then it starts to creep.

i feel like if the water pump was failing the same would be true, temperature would always rise, not level off then later start rising.

Am I incorrect in thinking this?

#6
93TsiAwd

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You are partially incorrect. The reason behind the water pump theory is, that when you are coasting (idling the engine), there is still air passing threw the radiator at whatever speed you are traveling at, dissipating heat. When you increase throttle percentage, therby increasing rpm, it should spin the water pump faster, flowing more coolant. I wouldn't call this the answer so soon tho. Like the rest of the guys have said:

-pressure test (fix any leaks)
-replace radiator cap
-verify both fans are working (never hurts to double check the little things)
-replace thermostat (posibly lower temp if need be)
-flush system and replace with fresh fluid


Like you said, if it didn't do this before, there is a reason why it is doing it now.


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#7
Tank

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If your gonna flush it, take out the thermostat and do a backflush so the seals in the waterpump are not damaged. If you need to take out the thermostat to test it that is a perfect time to do it. Just stick a garden hose in the upper radiator hose and take off the lower radiator hose, don't crank the car, let it run water through till its clear. Then flush with some distilled water, and then use a distilled water / coolant mixture to fill.

I would check and replace the thermostat, radiator cap, and try thowing a heat shield over that manifold.

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#8
Geoff

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You are partially incorrect. The reason behind the water pump theory is, that when you are coasting (idling the engine), there is still air passing threw the radiator at whatever speed you are traveling at, dissipating heat. When you increase throttle percentage, therby increasing rpm, it should spin the water pump faster, flowing more coolant.




the problem i have with this concept, is that when coasting down the hill, I am not in neutral. my rpms are at 2000-3000 so the water pump is still spinning at that rate. if im driving on a level surface, very little throttle is required to maintain 3000 rpms at a given speed, but the car heats up. there isnt much difference in engine speed, engine load, or air speed coming in but coasting downhill yields a quick drop in temperature up to 20 degrees in no time and maintaining 40 mph on a level surface heats it up fairly quick. I don't see how there could be that much of a difference in heat transfer where coasting loses heat quick, and just a hair of throttle to maintain speed gains heat quick.

thanks for all of your suggestions that should cover almost all aspects and I will go through the list. It just isn't adding up to me.



#9
Geoff

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i don't see a thermostat housing gasket for a 7 bolt, it says there isn't a factory one. Is there a gasket that fits from the 6-bolt or anything or do you have to use RTV?

#10
Jim H.

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Not too sure on the 7 bolt gasket for a 2g housing. The 1g 7 bolt is the same housing and uses the same gasket as a 6 bolt.

Did you happen to notice if the stat was partially open when you took it out?

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#11
JAXWHITE1G

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I would do all the previously mentioned things. I would also check the tension on the water pump belt. If all are in order, I feel its an airflow issue. Either the cooling fans aren't operating correctly or there is an obstruction in the airflow across the radiator. Post the fix when you figure it out.



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#12
Geoff

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I would do all the previously mentioned things. I would also check the tension on the water pump belt. If all are in order, I feel its an airflow issue. Either the cooling fans aren't operating correctly or there is an obstruction in the airflow across the radiator. Post the fix when you figure it out.


Mike


will do. i do have a large front mount. it wasn't getting that hot before so thats why I don't believe its airflow.

I haven't taken anything apart yet so I don't know what the t-stat looks like. I will keep you guys updated on the status of it all. Thanks for your suggestions.


#13
LUNARFX

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There are a ton of good suggestions here Geoff. Definitely have your system pressure checked first. If you can get a hookup from someone, it's the least expensive route for diagnosing next to buying a new radiator cap. It only takes a pin-size leak (maybe on the backside where you can't see easily) of one of your coolant lines, or even tightening one of your clamps to your radiator to resolve it quickly.
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#14
6bolt2g

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I hate to state the obvious, but are we all making assumptions that the device he is using to check the temps is correct? Have you checked it with another device just to be sure?
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All above text is not warrantied against any misinformation and is all purely speculation on the part of the aforementioned poster. Or something like that.

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#15
Geoff

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I hate to state the obvious, but are we all making assumptions that the device he is using to check the temps is correct? Have you checked it with another device just to be sure?


I'm using link to read the factory coolant sensor. I have the warning CEL set to 210 degrees. This never lit up before and my temps logged were below 206.

#16
Geoff

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so the cap is toast. the gaskets are solid and it holds zero pressure when the pressure tester is applied

#17
The Demon

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then you have another leak besides the cap...

now for the fun part - tracking that leak down.

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#18
Jim H.

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then you have another leak besides the cap...

now for the fun part - tracking that leak down.


I'm pretty sure he meant the cap holds no pressure. ;)

Hope the fix works out for you Geoff.

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#19
Geoff

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I'm pretty sure he meant the cap holds no pressure. ;)

Hope the fix works out for you Geoff.


correct...lol.

however, it didn't fully resolve the problem. Next I will check the thermostat for proper operation, and replace it.

#20
Geoff

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so when I am bleeding the system (running a spill free funnel on the radiator cap and running the engine) the water level in the funnel slowly increases over time. maybe a half inch over the 5 mins that i ran the engine. Then, when I turn the engine off, I can hear the water slowly running back into the system but I can't isolate where exactly it is going through. Is this normal?




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